Melasma Myths: Why Some Treatments Make It Worse (and What Actually Works)

Ania Sousa
Oct 27
3 min read

Melasma is one of the most misunderstood skin conditions. It’s often described as “just pigmentation,” but it’s far more complex than a simple sunspot or freckle.

image credit: https://www.mostskincare.com

Melasma is a chronic hormonal pigmentation disorder that causes brown or greyish patches, most commonly on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. It’s influenced by hormones, UV light, heat, and even stress, which is why it’s often seen during pregnancy or with hormonal changes.

Unlike surface pigment that sits in the top layer of skin, melasma involves melanocyte overactivity deep in the dermis, which makes it much more reactive and stubborn to treat.

Myth #1: “IPL or Light-Based Treatments Fix Melasma Fast”

This is one of the most common misconceptions and unfortunately, one of the most damaging.

IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) devices use broad-spectrum light that scatters across multiple wavelengths. While IPL can help with surface pigment or redness, it also produces significant heat. For someone with melasma, that heat can stimulate more melanin production, leading to rebound pigmentation or darker patches than before.

That’s why IPL is not recommended for melasma. It’s a great tool in the right context, but for melasma, it’s like adding fuel to the fire.

Myth #2: “Peels and Harsh Exfoliants Will Clear It Faster”

Many people turn to aggressive peels, acids, or “miracle brightening” products. The problem? These approaches disrupt the skin barrier, triggering inflammation, which then signals melanocytes to produce more pigment.

Instead of clearing melasma, these treatments often make it worse or cause uneven fading.

What the skin really needs is calm, controlled intervention, treatments that target pigment without causing unnecessary trauma.

Myth #3: “Once It’s Gone, It’s Gone”

Melasma isn’t curable, but it is highly manageable. It behaves more like a chronic condition than a one-time issue. Even after successful fading, it can resurface with sun exposure, heat, or hormonal fluctuations.

That’s why ongoing care and maintenance matter just as much as the initial treatment. A consistent skincare routine with SPF, antioxidants, and regular professional treatments will help maintain results.

What Actually Works: Safe Laser Treatments for Melasma

At Bloom & Beam, the focus will be on melasma-safe laser treatments designed to target pigment gently and precisely.

Q-Switched Lasers (like Nd:YAG 1064 nm)

These deliver light in nanosecond pulses, shattering melanin clusters without generating excess heat. This photoacoustic effect safely breaks pigment into smaller fragments that your body gradually clears, minimizing inflammation and risk of rebound pigmentation.

Fractional Non-Ablative Lasers

These work deeper in the dermis, stimulating collagen and improving tone and texture without removing surface layers. Over time, they can help fade residual pigment while strengthening skin.

At-Home Maintenance

Post-treatment, clients are advised to use mineral sunscreen (SPF 50+), gentle antioxidants like niacinamide or vitamin C, and barrier-repair moisturizers.

Melasma management is about balance — calming the skin, supporting healing, and maintaining consistency.

The Bloom & Beam Philosophy

Melasma treatment shouldn’t be rushed or reactionary. At Bloom & Beam Laser Studio, the approach is guided by education, experience, and evidence-based care.

That means: